Hi Lauren, and hello also to John, Xander, and Sakima,
This is a bit mixed up as I've wound up responding to two different people, but I'll just apologize for that then let you guys sort it all out.
I think it's clear there were problems from the Trifexis. I'll be avoiding that. Personally I'm never comfortable about the topical drugs. There is a natural product used the same way that is sold, I don't recall the name. If anyone wants to know I'll figure it out. I'm sure it's a combination of essential oils, so I'll not use it on the cats, but my cats never have problems. I'm lucky and I don't take that for granted!
Sorry, I'm wandering.
Ok, having read your post again Lauren, maybe I'm not so clear as I was thinking. You say the dogs have been on Trifexis their whole lives, but then you say they reacted to it. That implies to me that Trifexis has changed their product somehow, maybe the recent mixtures have different amounts of something? Or they got a more concentrated dose? I don't know, but if you think it's the Trifexis then yes, I'll not try it.
But I'm thinking this started at the tail area which is not where you put the Trifexis, so something else caused the initial issue. I would consider any changes that happened just before those symptoms began. Everything from a change in diet, a stressful situation or period for someone at the home, and especially what chemicals may have been introduced. New soaps, detergents, shampoos, cleaners, air fresheners, pest controls, indoor and outdoor plant fertilizers, and on and on. Even if it was a people product that changed and not something used specifically for the dog. Even a change of cat litter or food? There has to be some explanation for what caused it. I would consider this to be of importance as well as the current Trifexis issue.
johninny wrote:leih, I am sure this is a stupid question, but what is DE? and do you think your tick spray is necessary if you are using flea free and/or the new parasite dust? [ ticks are an intense and even dangerous problem around here.] if dependent on sprays when going out, it would mean several times a day - assuming even that the fenced yard IS safe. and most sprays I have run into are intolerable except in ''emergency'' special situations. but I agree that none of the chemical meds are comfortable solutions - have just never met any other solution that addresses the severe risk of ticks to dogs and their humans. would love not to use it. any more insight you can provide into your exact regimen [ how much, how frequently, etc , etc] and how well it works for ticks without the spray would be much appreciated. [ what spray do you use?] thanks!
It's not a stupid question, I had to think for a minute myself but that's normal for me. Diatomaceous Earth aka diatoms. It's quite effective on all types of insects. I know you can find it at plant nurseries, but I'd stick to food grade DE. Likely you know about DE too as it's the main part of Sevin Dust.
Because I can't help myself: Diatoms are still one of the most common types of algae on the planet, living in fresh and salt water and in moist earth. Diatomaceous earth is fossilized silicon dioxide shells made by these single cell algae collected from areas where long ago bodies of water evaporated and left the shell deposits. The cell forms a two part shell (picture a petri dish) and as it divides each new cell gets one half of that dish and then forms another half before it too divides. This means these shells get smaller and smaller in size until the cell decides it's too small and then switches to a different type of cell and goes into sexual reproduction mode, increases in size, then starts the process all over.
So you have these microscopic silicon shells with lots of holes in them with very sharp edges. They are quite beautiful if you look at some pictures of them.
As insects move about their exoskeletons create a static charge which attracts dust particles to them. This is why you see insects cleaning themselves so much. When the dust is diatoms, it's bad news because it lacerates and being very porous makes it very absorptive so it actually dehydrates the insect. It's extremely effective for control of insects and arachnids.
It's a very effective water filter as well, however swimming pool DE is heat treated and so won't work the same way. We want food grade DE, meaning particle size at or below 12 microns. Try health food stores and also Wiki says it's widely available at agricultural feed stores. It's used in feeds as an anti-caking agent as well as an insecticide (no bugs in the food!) and it also acts as an intestinal parasite preventative/treatment.
In carpeted areas just put it in your carpet. I use more around and under and behind furniture and appliances, and even some under the cushions of furniture. I use an extra amount around the walls and doors if they are not accessible to pets. Non carpeted areas can be dusted and then swept (this is the one time it's ok to sweep stuff under a rug), and what you pick up you can dump outside in areas where pets will be using, as well as the perimeter of the house, especially where bugs may be able to come inside.
Some people also will dust a pet's coat with DE. You want to be careful around eyes and nose, but people do dust ears with it. I think if I were to do this it would be the legs and tail and underside of the dog, before we would be going out to a location where I expect insects to be.
Important things to know: It's not good in the respiratory system, so use a mask if you're making a mess with it, and keep pets and yourself away until the dust has settled. And don't give reasons for someone to be sniffing the carpet I guess. I think the easiest way to address this issue is to pay attention to how you're spreading it about.
DE is ineffective when wet. It can be applied wet but it won't work until it's dried out. I've never tried applying a wet solution ("slurry") but that method makes a lot of sense to me for some applications. After a hard rain it may be necessary to put more outside once the ground has dried.
I'd also like to mention enzymes as a method of controlling fleas and ticks in yards. All bugs use enzymes to break out of their old exoskeletons so they can grow before their new exoskeletons harden. Enzyme products are sold that can be introduced to an outdoor area and they effectively digest insect exoskeletons which results in death. ALL bugs are susceptible to enzymes so it's important to consider that beneficial ones can be compromised as well. Arachnids - ticks have a harder exoskeleton so aren't affected as quickly as insects. The degree of concentration of enzymes that is used is the key. Aphids are soft, so a weaker concentration will remove an aphid problem without affecting honey bees. I'd say keep the dogs out of the garden and plants that need insects away from the dog zone.
As well, there are nematodes (microscopic worms) that feed on flea larva that can be introduced into your yard, sold at pet stores. Evidently they prefer a moist, sandy environment which sounds like they like to get oxygen. Not so happy in direct hot sunny areas, and may need to be repopulated after cold weather if they don't survive their hibernation period. Enzymes can also affect fungi and bacteria, so I do not know if nematodes are affected by enzymes.
The wonderful part about diatoms, enzymes and nematodes is they are completely natural. There are no chemicals so no way to develop immunities to them, and no health concerns for pets!
Light traps, or a warm light in a room where the pet is not, hung over a pan of soapy water or a sticky surface made from tapes and a board will attract and catch fleas.
I've used ground cloves to effectively de-worm pets. I use rosemary, thyme, apple cider vinegar, moderate amounts of minced garlic along with the bunch of other things I add to the pet's food. No garlic for cats, and I may start cooking the garlic even though I use small amounts, based on what I've been reading. I'll be considering it. Maybe I'll just cut it out until blood sucking season comes around again and only use it during that period.
I have not tried brewer’s yeast which is supposed to raise the blood's acidity level which the bugs don't like, zinc, vitamin B1 (thiamin), lemon grass, or barley grass concentrates. Of course nothing in excess, and it's always wise to ask a few vets for dosage amounts.
Natural repellents do exist. Essential oils such as citronella, tea tree, wintergreen, and eucalyptus have been shown to work. Also cedar, lemon and orange, rose geranium, and so on. I would use these as an additive to shampoos for bath time, some for a oil/water mix to use as a topical spray to be brushed into the coat, but not as food additives. The oils are also effective in helping to remove ticks. A couple of drops directly on them before removing them properly. I always go to tea tree oil first with most of my needs. NO essential oils that contain phenols or ketones for cats. They aren't built to deal with them and it can be very harmful to them. For me this means no topical sprays with oils for the dog since the cats sleep and play with him.
A one part apple cider vinegar and one part water mixture was recommended as a topical spray. For those that don't mind the smell. Mind that it isn't getting in eyes. I just add it to the food because it's easy.
Planting plants that naturally repel bugs is helpful as well, chrysanthemums, geraniums, and others. Perhaps a border around a yard that includes these and cedar bark mulch would be a nice barrier to keep a yard pest population at a minimum.
"English Pennyroyal Mentha pulegium. A small-leaved herb that has spikes of lavender flowers, pennyroyal is a member of the mint family and tends to sprawl rather than grow upright. Ground pennyroyal is one of the most effective tick deterrents available. Dust powder made from the leaves around areas where the pet sleeps and plays. The plant makes a good ground cover and grows well in hanging baskets." From:
http://www.homegrowntexas.com/issues/No ... index.html
However, I did also read that pennyroyal essential oil as a food additive has caused serious medical problems and death, so if I were to use it I would create a barrier for the yard that does not allow a pet to munch on it. With a DS I'd simply ensure that he's not eating the plants and let it grow as it pleases.
For walks into an area where ticks are considered "an intense and even dangerous problem" I certainly would be using a mixture of several essential oils, either dabbed on and brushed into the coat, or mixed with water and sprayed on in excess then brushed in. My choice of oils would be tea tree oil, neem, orange, lavender, cedar, rosemary, and whatever else I might come up with and I might consider adding the vinegar in as well. For tall vegetation areas I'd apply the mixture above the height of the plants since supposedly ticks "drop" onto animals based on the carbon dioxide that is exhaled. In my own yard I'd keep plants cut low and employ the enzymes in excess.
As usual I find myself agreeing with everything Leih said. Eventually we all find what works for us. There's a lot of confusion when people say this didn't work for them, or that did. Many times I'm thinking obviously this person didn't do it right, because I know from experience that works, and at the same time, wow, I want to avoid that because there was one bad review and that's more of a chance than I want to take when it comes to my guys.
Also I saw this while wandering about on the web. I know nothing about it, I'd want to ask some vets to get their input, then go from there.
"Capstar Flea Control Tablets ($17.99 at amazon.com)
This digestible tablet is suitable for dogs and cats and contains nitenpyram, which is not a registered pesticide, but a veterinary drug. There is no risk to humans, and veterinary reports do not indicate cause for concern for animals."
Ok, I'm done and going to sleep. I blame the bugs and drug companies for me being up way too long.
Facebook page.
This was when I finally put all of the symptoms together and figured out 
that this was caused by the meds.... I feel like such a bad mom. When I looked symptoms up on line I feel like we got off easy. 
Anyhow I promised them both after this last time when they were both so uncomfortable that I would never give it to them again. 
)
). I always wipe her off first all over with a towel, and I have found that the nap of it will tend to wipe off surface ticks, which I then deposit in my tick jar (filled with alcohol). I remove any attached ones as soon as I find them, which I check for twice a day during the two main tick seasons, and just daily otherwise. I have used other natural tick sprays, too, that are primarily oils. I think many of them work as well as each other (boy, that makes sense). The thing is to just be consistent about application. That's all you can do if you don't want to go with a toxic spray like Adams or something else.
