Dutch Shepherd Forum

I was thinking about the company's claim that the tech prong's correction is about 10% less intense than a regular prong. So, like, how did they come up with that figure?

In short, they didn't. I've seen all sorts of figures ranging from as good as any other prong to 5% less effective to 10% less effective. Not sure how you could even begin to put a figure on the difference. Needless to say, it's personal opinion and nothing more.

regards,

Austin

Note that the black one has a quick release clasp, as opposed to the martingale hardware. I don't trust quick release collars<g>. JMO...

All neck tech collars have a quick release. The links can't be separated in situ like a normal prong collar can so they all need a way to split the collar for fitting.

The martingale version has a trigger snap hook which is being phased out and replaced with a carabiner snap hook as it's less fiddly particularly on an excited squirming dog with long fur.

The buckle versions all use the new ClicLock system which has a locking button within the clasp. This button prevents the buckle from being depressed so it can't open, and the force required to physically rip the two halves of the buckle open is beyond the capability of a dog. The buckle version in black looks good on a black and tan dog, however the curogan version looks great on black & tan and brown dogs...it is the more expensive version but as the curogan ages it starts to turn a deep bronze colour and if you're lucky it will also mottle (they all age with a unique colour...).

regards,

Austin

LuvMyDog Worldwide wrote:

Note that the black one has a quick release clasp, as opposed to the martingale hardware. I don't trust quick release collars<g>. JMO...

All neck tech collars have a quick release. The links can't be separated in situ like a normal prong collar can so they all need a way to split the collar for fitting.

The martingale version has a trigger snap hook which is being phased out and replaced with a carabiner snap hook as it's less fiddly particularly on an excited squirming dog with long fur.

The buckle versions all use the new ClicLock system which has a locking button within the clasp. This button prevents the buckle from being depressed so it can't open, and the force required to physically rip the two halves of the buckle open is beyond the capability of a dog. The buckle version in black looks good on a black and tan dog, however the curogan version looks great on black & tan and brown dogs...it is the more expensive version but as the curogan ages it starts to turn a deep bronze colour and if you're lucky it will also mottle (they all age with a unique colour...).

regards,

Austin

Actually my neck tech collar falls apart just fine in the links. I had to resize mine and when we loosened up the links initially to break up the collar, they never stuck together quite the same. The collar breaks apart on it's own all the time when not on the dog, although when it is on the dog it's tight enough that it stays together. I always hook it on to a second collar for added safety. I have never had the lock clip unlock itself.

If your collar is falling apart at the links after being adjusted then it needs to be tightened back up. Just use a pair of pliers and a cloth so you don't mark the stainless steel and give it a light squeeze until the links are tight again. Only takes a moment. The collar isn't designed to be fitted by separating links.

Just an FYI: while browsing dog equipments site, there was a site who announced they would no longer sell the quick release collars. Too risky/riskier than a regular prong/not safe enough. (This site also forever encourages two collars and leads when using any prong.)

I bought one of these and when it arrived was too small to get over my female DS's head.

I've since bought a different collar type as I wanted something to stop her pulling during heel training and on walks: Canny Collar.

You may want to consider this as an alternative to the prong collar. [I've not used the prong so I can't comment on it, but it looks like it too would be effective for vigorous pullers].

The Canny is one of [3] similar type collars giving you added control, the others were the Gentle Leader & Halti collars. I liked the Canny's design a little better because it applies pressure to the dog's snout from behind versus from underneath & to the side. I felt it would be less inclined to jerk her head about.

You can find it on Amazon or TheDogOutdoors [which has a video]:

http://www.thedogoutdoors.com/canny-col ... 5QodvlEhfg

I don't work for either of the above nor do I have any vested interest in the product, just trying to suggest alternatives and I'm not trying to hijack this thread.

My DS took a little time to get introduced to this collar as it was pretty foreign to her having a strap over her nose. She actually did a few forward summersaults trying to remove it. But lots of high value treats and just getting her out and heeling/walking with it did the trick in fairly short order.

She's quite the heeling angel with this collar on. I found I can be a lot easier/more gentle with leach corrections. I also found it good to keep the slack on the lead to a minimum or the nose loop may slide off.

Tim

Canny Caller, overhere known as a "Halti" is a nice help if used correctly, but can cause neck problems if used falsely. Also, I own a dog that just pulls right trough stuff like that, she really doesn't care, and hurts herself that way.
I have been using a "contactline" for a while now, and am happy with that. I only use a prong in severe issues, such as hunting, where drive just get's too high.

contactline:

Forget about the brand, I always make them myself of some thin surf-rope with a knot at the end. The rings you can buy at a DIY store. Cheap yet effective

Marjolein, the collar you constructed looks like a dominant dog collar. Is it and just a different name is being used?

Raven wrote:Marjolein, the collar you constructed looks like a dominant dog collar. Is it and just a different name is being used?

ehm, if only I new what a "dominant dog collar" was
I'm not using it on a dominant dog just using it for contact, and quick respons, not to choke, it's to weak for that and I do not see the use in chocking them (maybe if they are having a little trouble with the "out" command, but mine never have...sissies...).

Edit: read some on Leerburg about a dominant dog collar, he says it is used to choke the dog, that is not what I use it for!! In Holland we have thos too, but always in steal (choke chain)... imaging it snapping...brrrr

smsdba01 wrote:I bought one of these and when it arrived was too small to get over my female DS's head.

I've since bought a different collar type as I wanted something to stop her pulling during heel training and on walks: Canny Collar.

You may want to consider this as an alternative to the prong collar. [I've not used the prong so I can't comment on it, but it looks like it too would be effective for vigorous pullers].

The Canny is one of [3] similar type collars giving you added control, the others were the Gentle Leader & Halti collars. I liked the Canny's design a little better because it applies pressure to the dog's snout from behind versus from underneath & to the side. I felt it would be less inclined to jerk her head about.

You can find it on Amazon or TheDogOutdoors [which has a video]:

http://www.thedogoutdoors.com/canny-col ... 5QodvlEhfg

I don't work for either of the above nor do I have any vested interest in the product, just trying to suggest alternatives and I'm not trying to hijack this thread.

My DS took a little time to get introduced to this collar as it was pretty foreign to her having a strap over her nose. She actually did a few forward summersaults trying to remove it. But lots of high value treats and just getting her out and heeling/walking with it did the trick in fairly short order.

She's quite the heeling angel with this collar on. I found I can be a lot easier/more gentle with leach corrections. I also found it good to keep the slack on the lead to a minimum or the nose loop may slide off.

Tim

Tim, the collar isn't put on over the head. All neck techs have a quick release mechanism, the idea is to unfasten the quick release, put the collar round the dogs neck, then redo the quick release. Not being facetious, but didn't you wonder what that bit was for? Curious though, who did you buy it off and wasn't there a guide with it?

A canny collar is no substitute, head collars carry a lot more danger than you'd think.

Raven wrote:Marjolein, the collar you constructed looks like a dominant dog collar. Is it and just a different name is being used?

"Constructed"? With 2 Julius K9 tags?

LuvMyDog Worldwide, I have to admit I was totally ignorant of that fact. I'll give it a try on my DS girl.

I've used so many different collars on her I'm guessing she'll take it in stride.

The head collar danger you refer to ... what information might you have on potential for injury?

Tim

LuvMyDog Worldwide wrote:

Raven wrote:Marjolein, the collar you constructed looks like a dominant dog collar. Is it and just a different name is being used?

"Constructed"? With 2 Julius K9 tags?

Don't under estimate my creative mind

mine looks pretty good too, though:

It looks good to me!

I have to ask----I've seen several photo's now of the fur saver choke put on "upside down"----Is there a reason that it is used this way? Do you sometimes work the dog on the right as some of the gun dog people do?

alspyce wrote:It looks good to me!

I have to ask----I've seen several photo's now of the fur saver choke put on "upside down"----Is there a reason that it is used this way? Do you sometimes work the dog on the right as some of the gun dog people do?

I never use the choke, I put my line on the other ring, this way it doesn't matter which way you put it on. Sometimes I lock it on two links to make it smaller and put higher up on the neck, but never on choke, with this dog anyway.

There are many documented "dangers" to the head halters. They can rub under the dog's eyes and actually cause infections and eye damage. The pressure if it is in a certain spot for long enough can actually cause temporary loss of vision. They are horrible for the dog's neck and have been shown to cause spinal injuries. They should never be used on dogs with long slender necks as they can quickly cause permanent and serious injury if the dog suddenly pulls. They can also rub fur off and cause anxiety issues in some dogs if they are not properly introduced or if the dog never accepts that contraption on their face.

Neither the Nech-Tech nor a traditional prong are designed to fit over a dog's head. You are supposed to take them apart each time, whether through the links or some sort of a clasp enclosure, and they should fit snuggly at the top of your dog's neck. Otherwise you are negating their effect.

What is usually referred to as a dominant dog collar is essentially any nylon choke collar that fits very snugly on the dog's neck. It will have some sort of a clasp opening so that it can sit up high and relatively tight on the dog's neck when not in active use. Same as a prong, it is not put over the dog's head like a traditional choke. I've seen a few special marketed collars with fancy names that do just that and are often called some fancy name and priced about 3x as much as a regular nylon dominant dog collar would be (or a choke with a clasp if that name makes you shudder). I actually bought a few plain nylon chokes with clasps at a place that sells show dog leads for just a few bucks a piece. They're made out of a really nice slippery tightly woven nylon, much nicer then the ones Leerburg sells. These work GREAT at controlling a pulling dog, in many cases just as well and even better then a prong and without that harsh look some people don't appreciate. The trick to them is to make sure they sit in the correct spot on the dog's neck, as high as possible just behind their ears, and the thinner the better (within reason of course as not to cause injury and be strong enough).

I did some image searching and actually found the exact same collar as what I have:


Here are a couple of images of proper placement:



The placement on the Mal is much better but the collar is actually too big (funny considering this is a pic they used to demo the collar's use). You want the collar to be tight enough that it won't fall from that position when not in use, so the collar in this dog is at least an inch too long.

One easy way I found to micro-adjust these nylon chokes, simply tie a knot in it, that takes up depending on the material about 1/2 or 3/4 an inch of the collar.

and here is an article with great illustrations on the proper fit and placement of a prong collar:
http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

I was actually going to ask what the difference is between a well fitted choke chain and a contact line in function. Looks like Coochi beat me too it. The biggest difference that I see is that choke chains are often ill fitted and offer more resistance, both during the correction (communication) and after during a release. But I can't see how they work on difference mechanisms at all - pressure around the pole of the neck.

Christie M wrote:I was actually going to ask what the difference is between a well fitted choke chain and a contact line in function. Looks like Coochi beat me too it. The biggest difference that I see is that choke chains are often ill fitted and offer more resistance, both during the correction (communication) and after during a release. But I can't see how they work on difference mechanisms at all - pressure around the pole of the neck.

couldn't agree more You can see my selfmade one, works fine, and is even cheaper You don't need a lot of power either, just a quick short pull will do.