Update and Introducing demon to koda

[cordeliandemon]

He's 10 weeks old now and will be at the vets tomorrow for his final vaccinations and a check up, they can't come soon enough! I walk him 3 or 4 times a day doing laps of the front garden for 20 or 30 minutes each (or however long it takes for him to do his business). It's an acre and a half but he still has enough energy to terrorise me for an hour before bedtime doing diveby nips.
I'll have to introduce him to my Giant Alaskan malamute koda soon and was wondering if anyone had some tips to help it go smoothly? She's pretty primal and has a bit of a no nonsense take on dog manners. I tried to introduce the two of them out in the farmyard because it's unfamiliar ground for them about 2 weeks ago, it went okish for kodas standards, nobody was bitten and he was submissive. Shes far too strong for him though and knocked him down a few times when trying to play. I was able to pet him with no intervention from her but every now and then she would get between myself and demon if he wanted to run back to me for security.
I've been giving him another couple weeks to get bigger and will be going for round 2 in the next few days, all suggestions appreciated

(She will be wearing an e-collar just incase something goes awry, with koda the training never ends)

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[Raven]

The malamute is trained on the collar, yes?

Others will chime in about introducing the two, but I'll add a general concern of mine: a prong correction, a zap, whatever, can draw a negative association to the stimuli and sort of backfire. Likely not a common occurance, but that's how my current adopted boy came to me. (I don't use e-collars.) But you know your malamute and if it was going to be an issue with her, you wouldn't be doing it. Just saying it for the benefit of others.

[cordeliandemon]

Yes she's trained for the e-collar, I don't use the static function unless it's an emergency (trying to attack a horse, person ect) I've only had to use it 3 times in 4 years. For recall and generally telling her to cut something out there's an audio beep setting and a vibration setting. She's submissive and generally well behaved with me, it's just the rest of the human/dog world she supposedly has dominion over

[Dutchringgirl]

When I got Sadie as a pup, I introduced her slowly to Thalie, Thalie gets along with everyone but just to be safe, I would have Sadie in a crate in the other room then Thalie could go see her. When they were out together, Sadie was always on a leash, or harness so I could just pick her up. Thalie would knock her over all of the time but Thalie was good at being careful, But I would intervene if it was getting too rough.

Make the intros small for a while, they should not just be thrown in together, the pup should always be on a leash when out of the crate and tied to you at all times. If the Malamute is good with the Ecollar, always have it on just in case.

[Stacy_R]

Ditto what Sharon said, though you answered the concern mentioned. Do you have a place where you could introduce them where they can just exist with each other and have no contact (along the lines of what Lisa was saying) for the first couple of sessions?
One exercise is having them in the same room together, both in a down, just existing. You don't pet anyone...you all just exist together. When the dogs relax, the session is over. Koda goes to her place (crate, outside, wherever), and Demon goes to his crate for some down-time. Meetings can be stressful. The key is helping them understand they can exist and relax with one another. And as Lisa said, always have the pup on a leash.

[Raven]

Here's an opposing thought on having one in a crate while the other is not with dogs strange to each other (OR known not to like each other OR dogs with DA/AA). Think if you were cornered. No escape route.

I'm not disagreeing with Lisa. Just saying there could be a flip side.

[Dutchringgirl]

Totally agree Sharon on that thought. That is why they should be watched at all times. The dog outside the crate should not be allowed to stalk the pup in the crate or be aggressive even in the least so the pup inside dosnt feel trapped and scared.

[Raven]

Absolutely. Just being "watched" doesn't prevent a bad experience.


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In regard to DA/AA dogs, I personally would never crate them while another dog/animal is in the room, no matter how controlled the environment.
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[Stacy_R]

Here's an opposing thought on having one in a crate while the other is not with dogs strange to each other (OR known not to like each other OR dogs with DA/AA). Think if you were cornered. No escape route.

I'm not disagreeing with Lisa. Just saying there could be a flip side.

That's why I suggested just having everyone in a down existing together. Every dog is different. Many times when I bring a foster in I will baby-gate off a portion of my hallway so that everyone can see and smell each other, but everyone can also retreat if necessary.

When I have everyone in the same room for the first time, my dogs go on base (or place) and the new dog is leashed with no one really getting "attention." Everyone can sniff from afar and look (no staring, please...that's rude), and then as soon as relaxation from everyone is obvious (hip roll, sigh, etc), then everyone gets released from the pressure (foster goes to crate or cordoned off area, and my dogs go outside to shake it off...literally...Tyson literally shakes off stress...I love that he is so obvious...and then we'll resume our routine.). If Koda isn't familiar with the base (place) command, then she should be leashed or collared up as well.

This exercise is just an option for you to consider. Good luck!

[Raven]

I like your protocol, Stacy. Especially with new dogs who you may not know well enough to reliably read all their cues.

relaxation from everyone is obvious (hip roll, sigh,

I love my boys' hip rolls and sighs--so guttural and expressive--and then the head-plop.

(Sometimes a sigh has a ring of disgust or impatience...if he was human teenager he'd be rolling his eyes with those types of sighs.)

[Stacy_R]

I like your protocol, Stacy. Especially with new dogs who you may not know well enough to reliably read all their cues.

Thanks Sharon. I have learned over time that down, base, and leashes are my best friends for introductions (whether in the home or outside of it). And allowing them to work through existing together and achieving relaxation is so important.

relaxation from everyone is obvious (hip roll, sigh,

I love my boys' hip rolls and sighs--so guttural and expressive--and then the head-plop.

(Sometimes a sigh has a ring of disgust or impatience...if he was human teenager he'd be rolling his eyes with those types of sighs.)

Oh yes....Tyson has that particular sigh, too. LOL!!! They are so cute when they are disgusted!!!

[Dutchringgirl]

Thalie is the queen of the Sigh LOL She is always disgusted with Sadie.

[johninny]

i would just like to point out to the random person that might someday make use of this tidbit that all this communication from the dogs [ sighs, rolls, sneezes, and zillions of other signs ] is how TraceDog was so useful [ essential] to me as an autistic, as he analyzed every person and every situation he encountered and showed and told me what he thought - something i was incapable of doing for myself. and no person could have been more accurate than TD. he was always thoroughly engaged by the social situation and yet had a neutral and calm perspective.

and yes, Stacy, i agree, they are so cute when they are disgusted. and does ''snarky'' apply?

[Stacy_R]

and yes, Stacy, i agree, they are so cute when they are disgusted. and does ''snarky'' apply?

I think "snarky" applies perfectly! LOL